In which there are more ruins

After leaving Patara, we decided to call in on some more ruins on our way home, and decided to go to Letoon, which apparently has a mosaic and some nice bits of temple.
It took as a little while to find it, as we were lulled into a false sense of security by the fact that there was a sign post on the main road, which led us to believe there would be signs at the next junction, too.
This turned out not to be the case, but fortunately there were not very many junctions. The area is an agricultural one, and there were lots of big greenhouses full of tomatoes (we suspect that the greenhouses are more about preserving humidity than heat) and little fields with goats, and the occasional old lady cutting hay with a scythe. We found ourselves back at the main road, did a u-turn under the bemused eyes of a elderly gentleman and his 7 goats, and shortly after that, as we went along the road we hadn't previously tried, we turned a corner and came upon an amphitheatre, so we deduced we had arrived.

Letoon Amphitheatre

The caretaker seemed somewhat surprised to have visitors, but he happily interrupted his game of backgammon to sell us entry tickets, and then we were free to wander around by ourselves. The place is named after it's temple to Leto (who, as I am sure you know, was the mother of Artemis and Apollo) It was primarily a religious, rather than residential area, and had temples to Leto, Artemis and Apollo. The temples to Apollo and Artemis have been destroyed, but the temple of Leto, remains, and several pillars have been re-erected.

There are olive trees among the ruins, sheep grazing in the amphitheatre, and frogs in the water. And tortoises, although they are not very friendly!

amphitheatre with sheep

There were no other visitors, and we enjoyed wandering around in our own time.

And then, because we were, after all, on holiday, we went home, and then out to a wonderful fish restaurant. We didn't bother with a menu, we just ordered meze, and they bring out delicious little dishes until you tell them to stop.

I can't remember all of them, but we started with samphire, and later there was calamari with spices, stuffed mushrooms, hunter rolls (like spring rolls, but stuffed with cheese and prawns) curried baby octopi... I seem to recall a bottle of wine, too.

It was a good day.

In which there are trains and planes and sisters and sunshine

I've been away from the internet for the past 10 days or so, as I've been away on holiday in Turkey with my sisters, and for part of the time, with D, my sister K's soon-to-be sister-in-law.
We had a great time, and I really enjoyed being able to spend time with my sisters, and getting to know D.

I think it will take more than one post to cover it, so will take me a few days, but here goes!

Our flight out was on Tuesday evening, from Gatwick, so my younger sister E drove to mine for lunch, then we went to K's home where we left E's car and all 3 of us got a trian to Gatwick.

As we were going on holiday, I'd come prepared, and once we were safely on the train produced cans of G'n'T, slices of lime, and ice cubes (it's harder to transport ice cubes secretly and with no cool bag than you might think) so we all had drinks in style.

We then met D at Gatwick, and spent 4 hours on a charter flight filled with fractious children! Once we got to Dalaman, however, things improved - we picked up out hire car, and K bravely drove us home, in the dark (Both Turkish roads, and Turkish driving, tend to be.... interesting!

K's fiance owns a flat in Fethiye, which is where we stayed. It's about 25 mins walk from the centre of the town, slightly up on the hill, so it's a little cooler, which is nice.

We spent our first morning stocking up on food, then, as one does, we headed out to the Hamman (Turkish Bath). We decided, on the advice of some of K&C's friends, who had visited just before us, to try a new hamman at one of the local hotels - it was very modern and shiny - and instead of the traditional cold shower after the sauna and scrubbing there was a very cold plunge pool, instead. It was fun, and very relaxing,but all of us who'd been hamman-ed before agreed that we preferred the less slick sand more traditional city hamman, and resolved to go there for our next scrub! Although the hamman proved, once again, that no matter how well you believe you've exfoliated, the Tellak (masseur) will prove you wrong. I do wish that there was a Turkish Bath near me at home!

The following day we decided that some Proper Culture was appropriate, so we drove to Patara, which is a Lycian site - it was an important naval base around the time of Alexander the Great, was mentioned in the Iliad, was visited by emperors Hadrian and Vespasian and was the birthplace of Nicholas, Bishop of Myra (AKA Santa Claus).  It was eventually abandoned after the harbour silted up, any many of the ruins were hidden, and preserved, by the sand dunes.


Parliament Building, Patara

There has been a lot of archaeological work going on over the last 20 years or so, including, most recently, the excavation and partial reconstruction of the Parliament Buildings - there were the headquarters of the Lycian league, and the archaeologists have partially rebuilt it using some original and some replacement material, and leaving parts as they were found, so that in the seating, for instance, you can see the original ruin, how the building was constructed, and finally the finished article, faced with marble etc.

Patara amphitheatre

There is also an amphitheatre, which has not been rebuilt, 2 bathhouses (one of which is currently propped up with a good deal of scaffolding,

Harbour Baths, Patara

And the triple-arched 'Arch of Modestus' (who I can't help feeling may have been misnamed) and, of course, several of the pointy topped Lycian sarcophagi which I have come to associate with this part of Turkey (there is one in the post office garden, in Fethiye, for example..)

Lycian sarcophagus and arch of Modestus, Patara





 Oh, and did I mention that as well as these spectacular classical ruins, Patara just happens to have a rather nice beach?



I have to admit, that being able to swim and sunbathe on a beautiful white beach in between sessions of exploring ancient Greek/roman and Byzantium ruins does add something to the experience!





After leaving Patara, we went on to Letoon, but that will have to wait until a later blog, as I need to sleep, now.